Issue1 TasteBound compressed - Flipbook - Page 94
FAR FAROE AWAY
t’s 2am when I bite through the final
bonne bouche – a dark chocolate truffle
infused with sugar kelp. Not that I can tell
the hour. A strange consequence of dining
just 300 miles south of the Arctic Circle,
where the summer sun never quite sets,
is an untethered, hedonistic timelessness.
Hors d’oeuvres and hours slip by so easily
in the perpetual half-light bathing the
windows at restaurant Paz.
Paz’s opening in March represents the
return of the Faroe Islands’ prodigal son:
Poul Andrias Ziska. Though the unpretentious young chef
might deny it, his Faroese take on New Nordic Cuisine
I
‘We have a really old food
culture that’s still very
active. It’s rare today to find
a whole nation that eats
very traditionally’
at KOKS catapulted the islands into culinary renown
– earning two Michelin stars as most outsiders scrambled
to find the archipelago on a map. Since KOKS’ buildingrelated closure in 2022, Ziska has been in Greenland
awaiting a new Faroe location. When that didn’t
materialise, he decided to venture out on his own.
Paz’s warm, candlelit room in Tórshavn, the Faroe
Islands’ capital, is at once inviting. The open kitchen is
a Caravaggian tableau of simmering pots, tweezers and
chefs’ heads bent together. On the wall hangs wind-dried
fermented lamb leg and cod, spotlit like works of art.
Guests gently chink glasses and natter: at one point, when
a blast of laughter erupts from a table, everyone smiles.
It’s unaffected, making the two Michelin stars awarded
to the restaurant in June, shortly after my visit, and barely
two months after its opening, appear entirely effortless.
