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Islay, Scotland
Islay, ‘The Queen of the Hebrides’, is the southernmost of the
15 inhabited islands scattered off Scotland’s west coast. While
Skye strains under the weight of over-tourism, Islay benefits
from a robust infrastructure, thanks in large part to its thriving
whisky industry – though its white-sand beaches and rolling
dunes are as much of a draw as its famously peaty single malts.
On the seven-mile stretch of golden sand that is Laggan Bay,
The Machrie is entering its first summer under the ownership
of Another Place. Known for its barefoot-luxury hotels in
Watergate Bay and the Lake District, the brand is breathing
new life into the late-19th-century links hotel that sits just
above the dunes. Meanwhile, Glenmorangie (of LVMH fame) is
nearing completion of Ardbeg House in Port Ellen, a full-scale
renovation by Russell Sage Studio: the 12-room boutique hotel
is now open for bookings ahead of its autumn 2025 debut. The
island’s 12th whisky distillery, Laggan Bay is also on track to
open later this year, while the stately Islay House – founded in
1677 by the Laird of Cawdor – is operating on a limited b&b
basis ahead of a full reopening in early 2026.
The food scene here is endearingly unpretentious – more
about freshness than finesse – from the whopping langoustines
at Lochindaal Seafood Kitchen to the crispest Islay ale-battered
fish and chips at The Bridgend Hotel. For the adventurous, the
Islay Natural History Trust runs a seasonal calendar of events,
including seaweed-foraging walks – sometimes led by James
Donaldson, head forager at The Botanist Gin. Further afield,
it’s just a short hop to neighbouring Jura, where The Antlers
Bakehouse & Bar is making waves, as is Lussa Gin – a femalefounded, award-winning micro-distillery. Like so much here, its
botanicals (lemon thyme, bog myrtle and Scots pine) reflect the
landscape itself: rugged, refined and deliciously wild.
How to get there? Fly direct from Glasgow to Islay (approx.
45 mins), or drive to Kennacraig on Scotland’s west coast and
take a CalMac ferry (approx 2 hours). calmac.co.uk
Clockwise from top left: Loch Gruinart oysters at The Machrie; Singing Sands beach; a guest room at Ardbeg House, set to debut this autumn; legendary whisky
destination Port Ellen; an expression by Kilchoman, Islay’s only farm distillery; the renowned Laphroaig HQ, near Port Ellen; a resident Highland cow
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