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Salina, Italy
Salina is the perfect base for exploring the Aeolian Islands – the
fabled archipelago scattered across the Tyrrhenian Sea north
of Sicily. Famed for its dolce far niente, or the art of pleasurable
idleness, Salina offers the simplicity of a Greek island holiday,
but with Italian verve, elegance and a touch of sprezzatura.
The ancient and picturesque town of Malfa, on the north
coast, brims with culinary talent. At Hotel Signum, renowned
young chef Martina Caruso is behind an array of bold, brilliant
expressions of island terroir such as caper ice cream, and bagna
cauda with raw sea urchin. Just up the hill is Principe di Salina,
a 14-room retreat with a geothermal spa and a kitchen led by
Silvana, a former surgeon whose cooking combines passion
and precision. Also in town is Hotel Ravesi, recently reopened
following a full renovation. Days in this family-run sanctuary
begin with sprawling breakfasts – the cakes and jams made
by Signora Ravesi herself – and are bookended with cocktails
crafted using aromatics from barman Daniele’s garden.
A few miles along the coast lies Capofaro, a Relais & Châteaux
estate surrounded by malvasia vines that flourish in the foothills
of an extinct volcano. Once part of the Tasca d’Almerita family
estate, it is steeped in heritage: the kitchen specialises in Sicily’s
noble monsù cuisine, while the 19th-century lighthouse and views
of Stromboli and Panarea create a sense of timeless calm.
A road cuts through the island, making it a 20-minute drive
from Malfa down to the fishing village of Rinella, famed for its
black-sand beaches and, just as importantly, Pa.Pe.Ró al Glicine’s
ricotta granita, studded with candied capers. For further
adventures, make the one-hour ferry crossing from nearby Santa
Marina to Stromboli. The island’s blackened volcanic slopes are
fertile ground for hikers, while the sun-drenched streets off Piazza
San Vincenzo are rich hunting grounds for pastries and gelato.
How to get there? From Milazzo (north-east Sicily), ferry and
hydrofoil services connect to Salina, Stromboli and other Aeolian
Islands. Seasonal routes also run from Naples and Messina.
EMMA DICKOPF, RELAIS & CHÂTEAUX
Clockwise from top left: evidence of a night well lived at Hotel Signum; the Capofaro pool is flanked by the estate’s malvasia vines; the view from the recently
restored Hotel Ravesi; Hotel Signum's caper gelato; blue skies at Principe di Salina; dive right in at Santa Marina; Capofaro's 19th-century lighthouse
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